The Beginning of It All - The Journey
My journey began when I visited a wholesale factory in Nairobi, Kenya, where baskets from various rural areas are delivered. The factory is filled with an abundance of baskets and the staff are exceptionally cheerful and. While I bought a few baskets, my curiosity piqued about their origins and transformation from plant to beautiful bag. As my adventure unfolded, I took several guests to the factory and learned about a group of women who craft the baskets. I arranged to meet them and set off early to Matuu, a town 120 km northeast of Langata. At a fuel station, I spotted a joyful pair of ladies, one of whom was Janet, an outgoing woman with a radiant smile.
This region is primarily inhabited by the Kamba tribe, who speak a Bantu language called Kikamba. Matuu is located in eastern Kenya, in a relatively dry area with limited rainfall and prolonged drought, ideal for the Agave Sisalana plants that yield Sisal fiber. The baskets and bags in the warehouse are crafted from this fiber, which comes from the plant's metre-long leaves with sharp points, producing a creamy-colored material. This versatile fiber can be used for making carpets, clothes, bags, ropes, and building materials. Each plant can be harvested about 20 times, and before the rise of cheap plastic, sisal was in high demand for its durability and longevity.
We were guided to the village described as ‘just down there’. Little did I know at the time that this meant a trek of .5km, which I now fully understand! The journey from Matuu to Yumbuni Village was delightful, with locals waving cheerfully and children running alongside our vehicle. I was informed I was making history as the first white woman to visit the village. As we traveled, the landscape became drier, with fewer trees and crops, and village huts began to appear. Unlike some areas in Kenya, there was no litter be seen as we approached. Our first stop was Ngangangi Market town, where women must take a motorbike to access the market, which is home to about 65 families. Soon after, we encountered a modern-looking well, which unfortunately has been dry for some time. Another well closer to the village exists, but it requires a two-hour round trip on foot, which the villagers must undertake most days.
We saw carts pulled by cows—this seems to be the primary means of transport for carrying tools to the fields and bringing produce back. It was noted that the last rainfall was in March, seven months ago, and the villagers are currently preparing the fields in hopes rain. During the journey, I learned a lot about the community. Many women make products from sisal fiber, while men typically engage in labor. Both men and women work the fields in preparation for rain. Fourteen women collaborate on the production, usually meeting once a week, but most of their work is done at home due to the long walk and transportation costs. All children in this region attend primary school, but secondary education depends on the family's finances. Primary school costs around 2500 Ksh ($25 USD) per term, while secondary school is about 8000 Ksh ($80 USD).
The nearest major town is Matuu, where an acre of land is priced at about 150,000 Ksh ($1500). However, in the area where the women work, it can cost around 30,000 Ksh ($3000). While this may not seem like much, in a country with a 40% unemployment rate and an average monthly income of $100, owning a small piece of land is a dream for many. As we approached the village, the narrow dirt roads were bordered by Agave Sis plants, creating a charming, rustic atmosphere without any litter in sight. It was explained that strict rules are enforced here,iting charcoal production and logging, with githerie and Ugali being the staple dishes (a light vegetable stew and a dense maize flour dish resembling a mix between mashed potatoes and Play-Doh).
I was glad to bring 10 bags of maize flour as a thank-you for visiting their village. Waste is minimal in this area; maize stems are used as cattle fodder, which has a pleasant salty flavor. Having six cattle in your homestead is considered wealth here. The land is primarily valued for the rocks it contains, which used to be a significant of income, but sales have ceased over the past year, leaving the community without vital funds. Upon my arrival, I received a warm and cheerful welcome from all the women, making the interaction delightful. Conversations took some time, as I spoke in English, which was then translated into Kiswahili and finally into Kikamba for the others to understand. Thus, some details may not be entirely accurate, and I apologize for any discrepancies. The women expressed their excitement to show how the baskets are made from start to finish, which I found wonderful.
From my initial reflections while standing in a basket factory in Nairobi, considering the working conditions of the artisans, to meeting the women in person, I was truly impressed. They were a joyful and industrious group who made the most of their circumstances, never asking for anything, and were genuinely delighted by my arrival with ample supplies of maize flour. What an extraordinary group of warm and welcoming ladies!
